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Author Topic: Translucent and canes  (Read 4331 times)

noani

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Translucent and canes
« on: April 01, 2011, 06:29:40 PM »
i prefer building canes where you dont need to wrap them in translucent but some flowercanes cant be made without ( know there are techniques for reducing without but haven't maneged them yet) and i made one the other day with the translucent...
The problem is that when creating a thing with the cane and it comes to sanding, the translucent get scratched and dont behave as the ordinary colours...i'm using very fine grit paper so what am i doing wrong? Dont have that problem when i use the liqiud clay as a coating. Ought to bee about the same?

ejralph

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Re: Translucent and canes
« Reply #1 on: April 01, 2011, 07:36:40 PM »
Are you having this problem with all brands of clay, or just one?

If you could take a photo of the problem, it would be really useful.

It will also help to know the brand of clay you are using. Also, how fine is the sandpaper? What grit paper do you start with? The more info the better really

Often the coloured clays have all sorts of additions to make them colourful and opaque which the translucents do not have. So it is understandable that some translucents will not behave exactly the same as the colours do in many ways. Some clays are just finer in texture than others too.

Maybe if it is one particular brand that does this, you could try the translucents from other brands and see if they are any better.

Or maybe even cut away much of the translucent from the cane slice before you apply it. If the translucent is mainly to pack out the cane for reducing, you could cut it away carefully. A slow and boring job, but its possible if you are desperate I suppose!

Emma
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noani

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Re: Translucent and canes
« Reply #2 on: April 01, 2011, 10:12:54 PM »
Thanks for trying to help me Emma ....
I've used Premo translucent.  Sorry i cant post pictures because i through it all away in frustration. I use 400 grit  at first ( but not always, depend on how much mistakes i need to get rid of) and then take my micro mesh pads that starts at 1500 up to 12000 grit. I like shiny things but never varnish, i dont like the varnish look. Always finish with the Renaissance wax i bought from you..thats just awsome! Have to buy a new one soon, along with some other stuff!
I'm not the patient type, so peeling of the translucent...no sorry thats not me ;)
I'll give it a try with an other brand .
Thanks!
Eva

ejralph

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Re: Translucent and canes
« Reply #3 on: April 02, 2011, 12:47:54 PM »
Eva

I wonder if this is the problem. I think starting with the 400 grit is too low maybe?

I don't think you need to use such a coarse paper to start with to be honest.

Also, the second problem I think is that jumping from such a coarse paper straight to a 1500 paper, the gap is too big. The 1500 paper will not have a chance to remove the scratches that the 400 paper made. The difference between them is too great.

Maybe the colours can cope with this, but the translucent just makes the fine scratches a little more visible?

If I were a polymer clay doctor, my **** would be this:

Start with a 600 grit paper. Then use a 1200 paper. THEN start on your finer papers (although I usually only do 600 and 1200 grits. Very seldom I will go as high as 2000)

If you really want to start with a 400 grit paper, try it with some other grade papers between 400 and 1500 to "bridge the gap". Don't just jump from a 400 to something as high as a 1500.

I cannot promise you this is the whole answer! It could be down the clay also, I have a vague memory of reading before about a person complaining that Premo translucent doesn't sand smooth enough for them. So you could try making test tiles of the translucent from a variety of brands, sanding them and seeing which comes up smoothest for you.

But I am sure whatever clay you are using, changing the sandpaper grits will help.

Emma
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shelleym

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Re: Translucent and canes
« Reply #4 on: April 02, 2011, 01:24:56 PM »
I agree with Emma, 400 is probably too low and you shouldn't skip from 400 to 1500.

I've use premo translucent quite a bit and haven't had a problem with it. Unless the item is exceptionally bumpy I wouldn't start with 400 grit. I'd start with 600, then go to 800 and 1000. Usually that's enough. But if I want to go further I'd go 1200, and 1500. The first grit is usually the one I use most. You want it as smooth as possible. Then each grit after that is less time as you are not re-shaping the item any more you are just removing the sand lines from the previous grit. By the time I get to 1500 you don't need much sanding at all. Most of the work is done on the lower grits. But I find if I want a really high sheen I don't get the same finish if I skip a grit. Don't forget to use wet/dry paper and also to rinse the item and paper often as it will get clogged with clay.

Would love to know how you get on.
Shelley

ejralph

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Re: Translucent and canes
« Reply #5 on: April 02, 2011, 01:34:12 PM »
Yup - thats the thing with sanding isnt it. Its all in the technique, not just how long you sand. Because after a while, you are not making anything smoother, just making it smaller!

Emma
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noani

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Re: Translucent and canes
« Reply #6 on: April 03, 2011, 06:24:54 PM »
Thank you :) Thinking of it i'm sure this is the problem! But finding 600 and 800 grit paper is difficult....i'm going on a hunt this week !
Made a pendant covered with translucent for protection, and skipped the 400 starting with 1500 going up ( must say it makes the pendant very smooth and shiny) to 12000 and i turned out nice...see if i can upload a picture later.
When you sand with that high a grit and use the renaissance wax it dont need taht much of buffing to shine....but i bought a Dremel and i'm going to test it to see if i gets even shinier. But the buffing "wheel" wasn't any good! What do i need to get to make it work? Build a buffing "wheel" of my one?

ejralph

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Re: Translucent and canes
« Reply #7 on: April 05, 2011, 08:08:09 AM »
I sell packs of the sandpaper, containing 600, 1200 and 2000 grit papers (these are the 3 grits I will use for sanding something smooth). But you can also check out DIY places or auto repair supplies for these sanding papers.

As for the buffing wheels - the dremel wheels tend to be too hard, but as you said you can make your own. You have probably seen Desiree's tutorial for this, but for anyone who hasn't check out this excellent page

http://desiredcreations.com/howTo_Desk2.htm

Emma
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Graceful-Orchid

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Re: Translucent and canes
« Reply #8 on: April 05, 2011, 09:14:45 AM »
Hi, I use translucent quite a lot and use 400, then 600 then 800 then finally 1200. I find after its gives a lovely sheen once buffed and there is no scratches left. x

Silverleaf Shiny Stuff

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Re: Translucent and canes
« Reply #9 on: April 14, 2011, 01:32:42 AM »
By the way, the grit numbers on the Micromesh pads aren't the same as the usual numbers on wet/dry. I have a set, and the 1500 (the coarsest of the pads) is nowhere near as smooth as my 1000 sandpaper. There isn't too much of a gap between 400 wet/dry and the 1500 pad, don't let the numbers fool you!

polynana

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Re: Translucent and canes
« Reply #10 on: April 14, 2011, 05:23:29 PM »
I bought some wet and dry from a certain well known (in UK) high street bike and car accessory shop H*******. It was rubbish and after one use, it fell apart. Now I get mine from a proper car repair workshop, well my husband gets it for me and that's excellent, lasts ages