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Author Topic: Klear  (Read 7581 times)

KMD

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Klear
« on: April 11, 2011, 08:08:58 AM »
Hi, I know this gets asked loads and I have to say I do prefer to buff and get as much a sheen as possible without glaze,
this is after having quite a few dissasters with glaze..

How many of you use Klear and have you tried the new formula? would you recommend this as the best.

I have tried varnish compatible for polymer clay but I dont get a nice finish and I have had varnish peel off beads and pendants once worn!!

They could sit there for a year and then when worn for a week it peels and I still dont know why ::)

Karen

ejralph

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Re: Klear
« Reply #1 on: April 11, 2011, 08:32:24 AM »
I have had great sucess with the old formula of Klear - no experience of the new version though.

I also find the Fimo varnish excellent. It has actually just been reformulated and seems even nicer.

I wonder why it peels. Maybe you are getting the clay just a bit too smooth for varnishing? I never sand above 1200 grit if I am varnishing and have never had the varnish peel. I even tried to peel off some from my test beads the other day of the new Fimo varnish and couldn't make it shift.

Dipping is a great way to apply the thinner varnishes like the Fimo one and Klear. You can put the beads onto sticks and spin them (work inside a large cardbox box) to remove the excess drips.

I personally prefer the varnished finish *when it is applied well* (I've seen some very dodgy varnishing in my time too  :o ). I find that well applied varnish will last for years, whereas any piece I have buffed tends to look very tatty very quickly.

But I have many times read of clay artists who feel the exact opposite. So I don't think there is a right or wrong over these things. Just whatever works best.

Emma
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polynana

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Re: Klear
« Reply #2 on: April 11, 2011, 11:07:36 AM »
I've had some peel off before too, but not with Klear, this was with Liquid Fimo on mica shift and I must say, I did sand and buff the piece very well, so maybe it was too smooth. I have never tried again as yet so may give it another go one day.
 I love the finish you get with Klear, I dip and spin too Emma  ;D, I also bake the beads for 5 mins between coats and usually give two coats.

Di

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Re: Klear
« Reply #3 on: April 11, 2011, 02:39:07 PM »
I use klear if I'm in doubt about a finish like chalk or powders but at the moment I am loving the soft sheen from Renaissance wax.

Di

rubyrube

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Re: Klear
« Reply #4 on: April 11, 2011, 03:43:55 PM »
Never thought about using a box and spinning - I would just tap the cocktail stick and keep an eye on them. Good idea, will give that a go. Its little things that make life easier. Thanks guys.  8)
Carol.
Carol

KMD

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Re: Klear
« Reply #5 on: April 11, 2011, 05:16:53 PM »
Ooh thanks, the highest i sand is 1000 grit, I do like the varnished look but for somereason Ive had problems I used sculpy glaze, im definately going to try the wax and will prob order the fimo varnish too and give that a go.

I know what you mean emma about them getting a bit shabby the lighter colours pick up dirt and dont clean as well when they are left unvarnished.

I am currently trying the klear on my scrap beads I made from my canes it is much easier to apply and I did the dip and spin lol x

ejralph

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Re: Klear
« Reply #6 on: April 11, 2011, 05:42:59 PM »
If you dip and spin, you WILL lose the occasional bead on the carpet. Just wash it quickly under a running tap, towel dry it and when it is completely dry just varnish it again.

I find this effectively puts you back to where you started. So if you were on coat 3, you only need to apply that 3rd coat again - the first two should still be sound as a pound.

Emma
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Di

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Re: Klear
« Reply #7 on: April 16, 2011, 02:53:41 PM »
Any advice on applying Klear onto flat pendants? I did some yesterday and they looked rubbish :( I have done it before but usually onto metallic looking things where the klear finish isn't so obvious. I tried my finger, a brush, and a sponge and it just looked uneven or I could see the brush strokes. I ended up sanding it off and making "distressed" pendants!

Di

polynana

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Re: Klear
« Reply #8 on: April 16, 2011, 03:50:58 PM »
When you add Klear to flat pendants, the trick is slow and steady.
first apply one very thin coat, I use my finger. If you get any air bubbles on the surface, just gently blow on the surface and they will disappear. Let it air dry, it will take longer than beads.
Apply another thin coat and once this is dry, give it a 5 minute bake in the oven.
Depending on the finish required the procedure can be done again. 

I used this method on the retro green cabs in my flikr album

ejralph

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Re: Klear
« Reply #9 on: April 16, 2011, 04:23:44 PM »
If I am applying any varnish to flat pendants, Klear included, I will do the following:

Apply thin coat with my finger - the trick seems to work your finger over the piece quickly, I find and not drench it.

Allow coat one to dry.

Rub over surface with some kitchen roll. Blow away any dust. (this seems to semi-sand the varnish layer as kitchen roll is usually quite rough without being too scratchy to mark the varnish layer)


Then, just repeat the above for as many coats as I want.

Emma
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shelleym

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Re: Klear
« Reply #10 on: April 16, 2011, 05:46:17 PM »
I've tried various different ways of doing it with Klear.

Sometimes if I'm doing beads and things and want a thick coat, sometimes I brush all over and catch the drips as it dries. Mop or 'wick' them up with some kitchen roll without touching the bead.

I've also done a very light coat on beads or flat things with a finger tip. With very little on, dries quick and you can recoat quick. But you do have to be quick at coating or you end up with finger marks or brush lines on the item.

For flat things I often flood the area to the edges and just leave it. Put it back in a cold oven just to protect it and keeps the dust off (or tent with foil just to protect it). If it's very flooded you have to wait a long time for it to dry out. I wait at least 24 hours - check it is really, really dry and then put the oven on for about 10 mins at 100 degrees just to seal it in.

You can also apply to things fresh out of the oven, it dries super quick. I find it's best with flat things that I want to flood with Klear.

So you can do both. It's up to you. Do some experimenting and try both ways and see which works for you.

Shelley

katt

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Re: Klear
« Reply #11 on: April 19, 2011, 02:02:15 PM »
I love klear and although I have tried numerous other glazes and varnishes I always go back to Klear. If they are dangliable (not a word I know lol) then I dip and drip and if flat then lots of very very thin coats using finger, although you may need to do 5 or 6 coats it doesn't take anytime at all as it dries so fast.

As for the new klear, I've had a test bead with a few coats of new formula on top the bookcase for about 3 months now and so far everything looks ok.

Talking of other varnishes though, i'm awaiting a couple of pots of 'Make me outdoor varnish' in gloss and matt which is recommended for poly clay as I have started to make chicken coop decorations, not sure if klear would be any good outdoors in all winds and weathers but would love to know if anyone have tried it  :)
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ladamemo

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Re: Klear
« Reply #12 on: April 19, 2011, 08:50:44 PM »
everyone talks about Klear but where do you get it from???
carrie - nuts but not a nutter!!

Bev

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Re: Klear
« Reply #13 on: April 19, 2011, 11:49:30 PM »
I've seen it in Wilkinsons & in Sainsburys  ;)

ejralph

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Re: Klear
« Reply #14 on: April 20, 2011, 08:18:26 AM »
I have heard people say that this product from Lakeland is a good replacement for the original Klear.

But I haven't tried it - so cannot say if it's true or not!

http://www.lakeland.co.uk/20286/Quick-Shine-Floor-Finish

Meanwhile, been testing out some other varnishes too that I am having good results with so far. Will let you know how I proceed with that one!

Emma
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